Chefchaouen
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Chefchaouen is a charming city in the northern part of Morocco, world-famous for its blue painted medina. It’s authentic and very, very pretty, truly a photographer’s dream.
Getting there
"The blue pearl of Morocco" is nested in the Rif Mountains, on the road between Fes and Tangier. Therefore it could be reached from either north (Tangier or Spain) or south (Fes and beyond). We travelled to Chefchaouen from Fes by bus and spent one night there.
Chefchaouen is a really small town and is not serviced by an airport. It doesn’t even have a train station. Unless you have a car, the CTM bus is a good option. It is a very popular route, and if you are targeting specific times in peak season to make the most of your time in Chefchaouen (e.g. morning of first day + evening of second day), do not leave it to the last minute. Supposedly, the tickets can be bought online, however at the time I tried several foreign cards and none worked. But we managed to secure good seats at the CTM office in Marrakech, a few days before the trip.
The Blue
So why is Chefchaouen painted blue?It's not known for certain why and when it all started, but at some point in time the houses in Chefchaouen used to be white. A few theories have emerged about the origins of the blue. Because Jews settled in the city both during the Middle Ages and WWII, they most likely came up with the idea. In Jewish culture, blue is a spiritual colour and represents the sky/heaven. But blue has a special place in Muslim culture too, as a protective colour - think of the nazar amulet or the blue mosques. Some say blue was meant to represent the water (either the Mediterranean sea or the nearby river/waterfall). Others think blue was chosen for more practical reasons, such as repelling mosquitoes or keeping houses cooler during the summer months. And then there is the aspect of visual appeal as well, so I can imagine this trend caught on easily within this small isolated community.
Today, locals keep to the tradition and paint their houses regularly in all shades of blue. The motivation is probably a mix of tradition/spirituality and the simple fact that this is what brings people to Chefchaouen and helps the local economy.
The Medina
Chefchaouen isn’t like other cities in Morocco, where there are several attractions to be visited. The main attraction here is the city itself - the narrow streets, the colours, the atmosphere. The Chefchaouen experience is all about walking the streets of the medina and discovering things along the way. Beauty awaits around every corner.
Spend the night. Mornings and evenings are the best times to experience the real Chefchaouen, without the tourists. This won’t be possible with the classic day-trip formula. During mid-day, the small streets of the medina become packed with tour groups hunting for famous Instagram spots and the city’s charm is lost for a few hours.
There are of course a few photo spots that have become really popular over the years - and some are quite nice. I particularly liked this little courtyard, where we took this photo of us, in exchange for a small contribution to the family living there - clever.
Place Outa El Hamam, The Kasbah
This is the main square of Chefchaouen, and it’s where you will find The Kasbah - Chefchaouen’s main attraction apart from its blue Medina. There is a beautiful garden and a tower you can climb up, to get a new perspective over the city.
Mosque Bouzaafer
This is the best viewpoint over the medina and it can be easily reached.
The Food
When we visited back in April 2018, we weren’t too impressed with the restaurant options, compared to other Moroccan cities. But if I was to go there again, I’d check out Café Clock, which seems to have opened since. They also have places in Marrakech and Fes, and we really liked the one in Fes.
The Crafts
You might want to save the souvenir shopping for Chefchaouen. We thought the merchandise there was different to the rest of Morocco, with more interesting items and what’s more important, less hassle. There are many options in the medina - probably too many! La Botica de la Abuela Aladdin, a little shop just off the main square, is quite nice.
Hiking
Chefchaouen is more than just blue walls, pretty doors and a laid back atmosphere. It's also a great base for nature trekking. There are hiking trails and rivers with waterfalls in the Rif mountains nearby - you can even go for a swim in some spots. Akchour is a popular hiking destination, if time allows.
Cannabis
There is a slightly darker side to Morocco's blue gem - the area around Chefchaouen is a cannabis haven. You will most likely be offered some "kif" (pot) as you wander around the city - but bear in mind that drug use is illegal in Morocco. Despite this, Morocco is the world’s largest exporter of cannabis! ...
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Meet the blue city of Morocco.