Hanoi
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Hanoi is such a unique city. It’s vibrant, fun, chaotic, and full of character, with great food, friendly people and beautifully diverse places and activities. It’s a bustling city that started its journey as the capital of Vietnam way back in 1010 - and was inhabited long before that.Old Quarter, French Quarter
The best way to experience Hanoi is to just walk around the streets of the Old Quarter and the French Quarter, admire the mix of architectural elements, observe the locals’ day-to-day activity, and just try to take it all in - there is a lot to take in!
Making your way through the Old Quarter is an adventure in itself. An ordinary walk along the pavement can be lined with obstacles of all sorts - you will inevitably end up on the road at some point. Motorbikes, shop merchandise, a little plastic stool, a whole pile of them, or a Vietnamese family having (or cooking!) a meal. Crossing the street takes everything to the next level. There aren’t many conventional crossings with traffic signs, if any, and an outsider is bound to feel very confused when first faced with this situation. You can’t just wait for there to be no traffic - that never happens. The way to go is to proceed slowly and firmly, don’t run and don’t change your mind. The cars/motorbikes will honk as they always do and go around you. You can also do what the locals do, and use them as a “shield” so to say.
One interesting thing about the old quarter is that it’s a spider web of intersecting streets, each one with a unique character and focusing on one particular trade. Traditionally, the streets were named after what their vendors sold, and many have preserved this tradition to this day. Back in the day, the Old Quarter used to be called “36 Streets” - however the actual number of streets is higher now. Bamboo crafts, silk clothing, silver jewelry, fresh produce, you name it. Anything you need, there is a street for it!
Temple of Literature
Just a short walk away from the restless Old Quarter, lie this picturesque temple surrounded by beautiful gardens - an oasis of tranquillity in this bustling city. The temple is dedicated to Confucius, hence the name, and was built in 1070.
The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
The Hồ Chí Minh Mausoleum is the resting place of the former president of North Vietnam. That's actually not his real name, but one he chose himself and it means "bringer of light". He is quite a big deal in Vietnam - they named a city in his name after all. During his life, he fought for independence and unification under communist rule, but never got to live and witness the latter. At the time, the country was split into communist North Vietnam and non-communist South Vietnam, supported by the US. The American/Vietnam war took place and when the communists took Saigon (the capital of South Vietnam) in 1975, they renamed it in honour of Hồ Chí Minh.
Hồ Chí Minh’s final resting place is quite different from a standard mausoleum. The leader’s embalmed body is preserved in a glass enclosure in the main chamber, for all to see.
The mausoleum was closed on the day we visited, so we didn’t make it inside.
The area around the mausoleum has a very different look to that of the Old Quarter, and feels very open, with wide streets and vast squares and parks, and a soviet influence throughout.
Tran Quoc Pagoda
The Trấn Quốc Pagoda is the oldest Buddhist temple in Hanoi - and it’s really old! Originally built on the banks of the nearby Red River almost 1,500 years ago, it was relocated to its current location on the southeastern shore of the West Lake due to the river's expansion. It is of a vibrant red colour, as a symbol of luck and prosperity in Chinese/Vietnamese culture.
The West Lake
The West Lake is a large freshwater lake in Hanoi, and it’s a good place to exercise or find some peace - popular with locals. You will inevitably walk along its south-eastern shore as you pass the causeway leading to the pagoda.
Hoan Kiem Lake
This is the beating heart of Hanoi.
On weekend evenings, the wide hectic streets around the lake close to all traffic and everyone - locals and travellers, old and young - gathers to have a good time. People talk, eat, wander and play traditional games (jump-rope, stilt walking, bamboo stick jumping, etc.). So crowded, yet so peaceful, and so much feel-good in one place, it's incredible! - seeing this on one of the evenings was one of my favourite things about Hanoi.
Thap Rua
Thap Ruá (Turtle Tower), located on an even smaller islet in Hoàn Kiếm Lake, is a symbol of Hanoi. It cannot be visited, but can be admired from a distance. It owes its name to a local legend involving a sword, a famous Vietnamese emperor, and the Golden Turtle God. Hoàn Kiếm Lake means The lake of the returned sword. The terminology around this area of Hanoi is quite literal. Also, until very recently the lake was actually home to a specimen of Yangtze giant softshell turtle, the largest freshwater turtle and one of the most endangered species in the world. The last known individual in Hoàn Kiếm Lake died in 2016. Today, only 3 remain in the world: one in China (captive) and two in Vietnam (wild) - however, the future of this species does not look promising at all, as all three are males…
Ngoc Son Temple
Ngọc Sơn Temple (Temple of the Jade Mountain) is Hanoi’s most visited temple. It lies on a small islet in Hoan Kiem Lake, connected to the shore through a beautiful red bridge. It’s small, but very hard to miss.
Also, it turns out that Ho Chi Minh is not the only embalmed body on display in Hanoi, as this Buddhist temple is home to the embalmed remains of that turtle that died in 2016.
Water Puppetry
Water puppetry is a tradition that originated in the 11th century in the villages of Northern Vietnam. Today’s shows are performed in shallow water, and puppets appear to float over the surface, controlled by puppeteers hidden behind a screen. Back in the day, villagers would entertain each other in this way when rice fields were flooded.
The Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre in Hanoi, just off the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, is world-famous for showcasing this ancient art form.
Having attended such a performance, I can now say that water puppetry is will never be go-to form of entertainment. Firstly, as a foreigner, it is difficult to relate to and fully comprehend this theatrical manifestation. Secondly, I also found it a bit boring and childish. However, I admired the great skill of the puppeteers and the determination of the Vietnamese people to preserve this unique ancient tradition. All in all, it’s one of those things you should only try once… or not at all.
Hoa Lo Prison
This prison was used by the French colonists for political prisoners, and later by North Vietnam for US prisoners during the Vietnam War (or American War, depending on the point of view). Today, only a small part of this prison remains and has been turned into a museum.
There is controversy surrounding the conditions under which American prisoners were held during the war. The Vietnamese claim that they were not harmed and treated well, while the museum displays depict inmates having a rather decent time. However, former prisoners have reported numerous acts of torture and mistreatment.
The name of this place ironically translates into fiery furnace or even hell’s hole, deriving from the street name Phố Hỏa Lò, a street with a large number of vendors selling stoves in pre-colonial times. At this point, it’s pretty clear to me that diacritics are quite important in this language. While hỏa lò translates into stove, hoa lơ means cauliflower! The famous phở can refer to the famous noodle soup, but it can also mean street as we’ve just seen, and a few other things, depending on that o at the end.
The Imperial Citadel of Thang Long
Hanoi’s Citadel has been the political centre of the country for many centuries, until the capital was moved to Huế at the start of the 19th century. After that, the citadel was left in a state of ruin and was largely destroyed in upcoming wars. The citadel was also used as headquarters by the Vietnamese resistance during the Vietnam/American War.
The central sector of the Imperial Citadel is Hanoi’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of eight such locations in Vietnam.
The place is not as pretty or photogenic as other attractions in Hanoi and not as visually impressive as the Imperial Citadel in Huế, however it should be appreciated for its historical importance if nothing else.
The Train Tracks
One of the most interesting and unusual things to do in Hanoi is watching this train pass through the city streets. This happens maybe a couple times a day and it’s really quite fascinating how these tracks run so close to people’s homes. You can ask a local if the train is expected to arrive anytime soon. And you can easily tell when it’s about to happen, as locals start moving their things out of the way.
When we visited in November 2017, we sat down at one of the “railway cafes” along the road and had the most wonderful time. There weren’t many tourists around at all. However, with the rise of social media, it should not come as a surprise that this experience has become immensely popular in recent years - so much that local authorities have recently blocked the main section of the road and ordered the cafes to close down (due to safety concerns). It was only a matter of time - that is what you get when a place becomes too popular for its own good. That said, I never felt that the road safety was of any concern to anyone in a city with a notorious reputation for its traffic, where you are at the mercy of the drivers at every crossing of the street.
The Night Market
Like in any major city of SE Asia, there is a night market. However, I was hoping to find more artisan craft (like I’ve seen in other cities such as Hoi An, Chiang Mai, or Siem Reap), and what I saw was mostly cheap Chinese goods and fake merchandise.
The Hanoi Ceramic Mosaic Mural
This project was finished in 2010, to mark the millennial anniversary of the city of Hanoi.
It’s the world’s largest ceramic mosaic - and that’s about it.
The Food
Vietnamese food is amazing and there are loads of interesting local dishes to try out in Hanoi.
Some ideas: pho, bun cha, banh mi, spring rolls, caramelized pork/fish - and much more.
Sipping on a bowl of pho (traditional Vietnamese noodle soup) while sitting on a plastic stool at a local eatery on the side of the road is a very authentic Hanoi experience. You will soon realize the little plastic stools are everywhere you look - they’re something so typical of Hanoi!
Here are some of the places we tried and loved:
Banh Mi 25 (for the traditional banh mi sandwich)
Cha Ca Thang Long (for the signature fish meal, Cha Ca, cooked and prepared at your table)
Lantern Lounge (for the ambiance)
Hanoi Food Culture (for everything)
As a side note, as you walk around Hanoi you might come across local butchers preparing dog meat - this is quite obvious, as the carcasses are usually on display. It’s an unusual sight for an outsider and a very unpleasant one for any dog lover. However, it is something normal in Vietnam where dog meat is considered to bring good luck.
The Coffee
We fell in love with Vietnamese coffee! The chocolatey coffee with the condensed milk (and the optional egg yolk), hot or iced - yum.
I don’t think there is any place where you wouldn’t be able to try this national delicacy. It’s a guaranteed delight for any lover of coffee. If you want to incorporate this into your daily routine, there are also lots of shops selling those Vietnamese coffee filters and various varieties of coffee (which can also be found in the supermarket, cheaper).
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A day in Vietnam’s imperial city