Kotor

The medieval town of Kotor is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tucked away in a far corner of Kotor Bay, its small charming old town is surrounded by well-preserved fortified walls. The architecture is distinctive - as you wander around, you may even spot carvings with the winged lion of Saint Mark or Venetian masks. That's because Kotor was under Venetian rule for almost four centuries! Beyond the city walls, the mountains along the bay provide a stunning backdrop.

Getting there

Kotor is easily accessible from all directions, yet far enough away from any other place that it doesn’t become overrun by the masses. Kotor is certainly no longer the hidden gem it once was, since it’s become quite popular in recent years. But it’s not completely overwhelmed, not yet anyway.

The closest airport is Tivat, but the ones in Podgorica (the capital of Montenegro) or Dubrovnik (across the border in Croatia) are much more popular for international routes. It’s a 90min drive from either airport to Kotor. The country of Montenegro as a destination remains one of the hidden gems of Europe, but Kotor Bay has lost that status. The crowds have mostly spilled over from the colossal cruise ships and the very popular Dubrovnik. In a way, Kotor is quite similar to Dubrovnik - both are medieval old towns with well-preserved fortified walls, and both are sandwiched between the mountains and the sea. Kotor doesn’t have the “Game of Thrones” connection (though that’s kind of a good thing), but is less crowded, cheaper and has better scenery.

We also travelled to Kotor from Dubrovnik, and it took around 2h, plus customs. We took an early morning bus from Dubrovnik and returned the next day late in the evening, which gave us sufficient time to explore Kotor and even include a short trip to the nearby village of Perast. That said, I really wish we stayed longer. Dubrovnik was the main destination in our trip, while Kotor was a side-trip, and I wish it were the other way around. I just never expected to like this place so much.

When to visit

Kotor Bay is best enjoyed during the warmer seasons, in the detriment of crowds. However, spend the night in the area and you may have the place to yourself in the evening, when the day-trippers are gone and the cruise ships have sailed away.

​

The Old Town

The walled old town of Kotor is an attraction in itself, so make sure to take some time to wander through its narrow alleys and picturesque squares - it won’t be long before you covered the entire area on foot. Even so, there many churches and palaces contained within the boundaries of the old town, serving as a testament of the Venetial rule that Kotor has been under during medieval times. Some notable churches are St. Tryphon’s Cathedral, St. Nicholas Church and the tiny St Luke’s Church dating back to 12th century.

Many of the palaces have been turned into restaurants or accommodation. Accommodation within the city walls is plentiful and relatively inexpensive. We spent the night at Palazzo Drusko, a 600-year-old stone house full of antiques, formerly owned by Montenegrin nobility - can totally recommend it.

As you venture a little bit outside the city walls, the view from the bridge at the north-western corner (the moat and Kampana Tower with the fortifications running up the mountain) is particularly impressive.

St. John's Fortress

If there is just one thing you do in Kotor, let it be this. The fortification walls running along the mountain side can be seen from just about anywhere in Kotor. You can climb up there and, as you can imagine, the views are quite spectacular. St John’s Fortress itself is derelict and unimpressive, so this hike is really all about the views. The journey is more important than the destination - kind of place. The path starts on the eastern edge of the old town. There are 1355 steps to climb to St. John's Fortress. The hike is not challenging (just long), but it can be a little exhausting on a hot summer day, so bring water.

When we visited (2017), a small fee of 3€ was collected at the start of the hiking path. It appears that as of 2019, an improvised ticket kiosk with turnstiles was introduced and the new fee is 8€ - this doesn’t look very official and it’s clearly just a way to monetise on the popularity of this hike. The walk to St John’s Fortress isn’t a maintained attraction, just a walk up the hill to a viewpoint. There is no doubt the hike is worth paying for, but if you are really determined to avoid this fee, you could use the alternative path (that you can see on Google Maps) - however it’s longer and much less scenic.

Your first main stop will be the Church of Our Lady of Remedy. This is a good place to get some rest in the shadows and take in the view. Head just a little further and you will be rewarded with the best view of Kotor Bay - one that includes the church as well. The view from this point onwards doesn't get better, so if you don’t want to hike all the way up, you wouldn’t be missing all that much.

Kotor Bay

Kotor Bay is an incredible destination and one of my favourite natural landscapes of Europe. You can admire it from a distance, as you climb up to St. John’s Fortress. You can observe it from ground level, as you walk along the port or take some time to relax in Park Slobode or at the beach (yes, Kotor has a beach too!). Or you can get on a boat tour and really experience the beauty of it. The idyllic village of Perast with its two islets makes for an ideal day-trip (if not more!). Read more about it here.

Cats​

Kotor is known for its love of cats - they are everywhere around the old town. It's not really known why and where it all started. But the locals are embracing it, and there are cat souvenirs everywhere and even a cat museum! Here you will find a plethora of cat memorabilia, vintage portraits of people with their cats, and various other cat-themed random things. It’s a tiny museum and the entrance fee is just 1€, which will contribute to feeding the strays. Kotor is definitely the place for cat lovers.

---

More in Montenegro