Dois Irmãos — dumitrip

Dois Irmãos (The Two Brothers) are two peaks situated between the neighbourhoods of São Conrado and Leblon. The view of Ipanema beach with Dois Irmãos in the background is one of the most iconic sights in Rio. When you look at them from that angle, you wouldn’t think one could reach the top without some serious climbing experience. However, there is a trail on the other side with a moderate slope leading all the way to the top of the “taller brother”. At 533m, this is higher than Sugarloaf, but not quite as tall as Corcovado.

This is undoubtedly one of the best hikes in Rio. The journey itself is an experience and the views are oh-so rewarding.

Getting there

First, make your way to Praça Do Vidigal - this step is straight-forward, and the area can even be reached on foot from Leblon/Ipanema. The hiking trail to Dois Irmãos starts at the very top of Favela Vidigal. The thought of having to cross a favela would have many hesitate at this point, but do not worry! Vidigal is a pacified favela and, while still a favela, it’s probably the safest in Rio. From the base, you have three options.

You could walk, but I really wouldn’t recommend this. It’s a long uphill walk - it will get you tired before you even start the actual hike.

You could join a few others in a van (this should be around 5BRL per person).

Lastly, if you are feeling adventurous, you could have a local drive you up on the back of their motorcycle (also around 5BRL or less). Steep slope, bumpy roads, sharp turns, incoming traffic - what could go wrong? Clearly this option is not for everyone, but it is the most fun one - your adrenaline will be pumping.

You might be able to get an Uber to drive you all the way to the top, but the transfer options from the base are more popular and besides, you would be supporting the local community.

If you end up next to a football court (Campo do Vidigal), you know you are in the right place. The start of the trail lies straight ahead, through an opening between the trees. This can be visualised on Google Maps - have a look at our map for easy guidance. From there, it’s a 40min trek through the jungle to reach the top.

Can you do all of this on your own? Certainly yes. As outsiders, we were a little worried about the idea of wandering through a favela, and so we decided to go on an organised tour. Just like Tijuca, we ended up being the only ones in our group, which was great. It’s definitely more beneficial having a local join you on this trek rather than at Corcovado or Sugarloaf. They can take care of transport, guide you along the trail, and keep you entertained with interesting stories about Rio. But it’s not necessary.

Don’t forget to bring cash for the motorcycle/van.

The Hike

The hike starts easy, and becomes a little more difficult later on. There are sections which are quite rough and slippery, but not dangerous or too challenging.

The trail overlooks Favela Rocinha, and there are several openings en route where you can catch a glimpse of the favela from above - I found these views quite fascinating. You may also encounter cute marmosets along the way, so watch out for them!

Bring water to keep yourself hydrated - this hike can be physically demanding going up.

The View

It’s only fair that a breathtaking hike will be rewarded with an equally breathtaking view! Indeed the view from the top is spectacular - Cristo Redentor to the left, Lagoa, Ipanema and the vast ocean to the right. I think this view would look best at sunrise or sunset, however that does mean making your way through the jungle and favela in the dark, which I personally would not be very fond of.

At the end of it all, you could treat yourself with a refreshing drink at one of the bars at the top of the favela (Bar da Lage is quite popular). And if you want to really get a feel of the community and see what day-to-day life in a favela is like up-close, you could walk down to the base. Alternatively, wait for a van or motorcycle to come by.